While the importance of horses in the modern world is fading, they remain a valuable cultural heritage symbol in Hungary.

During the Hungarian-Austrian era, important state studs were established all over the empire to improve local breeding practices. Many of these studs later closed due to military and social upheavals along with agricultural motorisation, but a select few managed to survive thanks to government support. Today thes remaining studs safeguard the genetic diversity of rare horse breeds whilst maintaining traditional horsemanship values.

Lipizzaners are a protected breed in Hungary and were first established by the Austro-Hungarian monarchy four centuries ago by crossing imported Spanish and Italian stallions with local mares. While today the breed is often associated with the Spanish School of Vienna, few people know that there were once two Royal Spanish Riding School’s – one in Austria, and the other in Hungary.

The Hungarian training facility operated in Budapest until 1945 on an equal footing with the Vienna institute. Sadly, the war brought an end to the school.

On the 24th of March 1945, the Russian Army waged a fierce battle against the capital, and most of the Hungarian riders and grooms were either killed or taken as prisoners of war. Four of the school’s Lipizzaner stallions were stolen and used to pull heavy munitions into combat (never to be seen again) and another eighteen stallions were shot and eaten by the Russian Army.

With a multitude of well-maintained tracks crisscrossing the unique natural landscape, and a welcome lack of fences to hinder the routes, the Bükk Mountains are ideal for trail riding.

Attila, the studs head rider, took me on a lovely ride behind the village via the marathon driving tracks used during the 1984 World Driving Championships. Atilla was a kind and attentive guide, full of interesting information about the area we were riding through.

The Bükk National Park is packed full of natural wonders, including more than 1,000 caves, thermal springs and waterfalls, and thick beech forests (bükk stands for “beech”). There are plenty of history-steeped cultural sites such as churches and historical buildings to enjoy from the saddle, and frequent opportunities to canter or trot through the open meadows and grasslands. I rode a sweet twelve-year-old mare named Fátyol, who handled the steep inclines and descents, and twisting turns like a pro.

Intrepid riders can book an overnight adventure to Csipkéskút, near Hungary’s northern border with Slovakia. This is where the young stallions roam in free-ranging herds for the first three years of their life, enjoying the mineral rich soil and hilly terrain of the Bükk Plateau – elements which contribute significantly to their mental and physical development.

If trail riding is not your thing, carriage driving lessons are a fantastic alternative or additional activity to add to your trip. The Szilvásvárad drivers are renowned for their accomplishments all over the world, and if you have ever been curious to pick up the reins and try carriage driving, this is the place to give it a go. Spoiler alert. It’s harder than it looks!

Accommodation onsite can be booked as part of an all-inclusive package directly with the stud, this takes the guesswork out of where to stay and what to do every day, while helping contribute to the preservation of the Lipizzaners.

The upper floor of the stallion barn has been carefully refurbished and turned into a small guest house. Seven rooms in the turn-of-the-century building have been restored, each complete with a fridge, desk and ensuite bathroom.

I was one of the first guests to stay in the new accommodation and adored the suggestive atmosphere (you can hear the stallions whinnying below) and enjoyed the carefully thought-out details in the room, such as artisan furniture with hand painted Lipizzaner motifs and classical riding prints on the walls.

The rooms are only a 5 minute walk from the village hub, where visitors can enjoy a wide array of restaurants and shops. There is also a nice local Spa, if you have time to include an afternoon of peace and pampering.

Hungarian food and wine is hearty, generous and tasty. Think rich stews like goulash, stuffed cabbage leaves, lángos (fried dough smothered in sour cream and cheese) or fried seasonal vegetables. Fish is a popular local dish due to the many trout farms nearby, and it often appears fried (covered in cheese or sauce) or in a spicy fish soup. Most main dishes are eaten with a köret, or side dish or a salad. The best-known wine of the region is Bikaver (Bulls Blood) a dry red wine made using at least four grape varietals. I ate at a different restaurant each meal, since the village was so nice and handy (a luxury for a riding holiday).